Over the years I've had a few of these

The Burmese Python is a very common pet for many snake enthusiasts. They look sweet when they are babies, and are becoming very cheap And the ones in the shop do look sweet. .
Liam and his burm	BUT Growing quite large (between 15 - 18 feet for females), Burmese Pythons can be quite intimidating. Remember that if you purchase a juvenile Burmese that you must think ahead! It is quite possible for a female to reach 20 feet in length.
Don't let the size scare you too much, though.,Unlike some reports of reticulated pythons, burmese pythons are generally quite docile with regular handling - my largest burmese (Buff - seen above) seems to enjoy regular handling and is often a star at various snake shows and Scout snake nights. However baby Burmese pythons can bite freely - I won't touch them if they are less than 2 feet long!!!

	Housing a Burmese Python can be quite space consuming. Juveniles up to the size of 4 ft long can fit comfortably into an aquarium tank that is 36" long x 18" wide x 18" high. Remember that snakes rarely stretch themselves out fully when resting and if well-fed will not be very active. They will get adequate exercise from regular handling sessions. Once a Burmese Python reaches 4ft or more, however, it is best to construct a cage of a size that will be suitable for them for the rest of their lives, otherwise you will be building a bigger cage every time they grow another foot or two!
Burmese Pythons will require supplementary heating in all areas outside the tropics. The air temperature in the cage should be maintained at at least 80 to 85 degrees F during the day, possibly reducing to around 75 degrees F at night (I'll mention that later). There are many ways to control the temperature in your snake's vivarium (ceramic heat emitters, heat rocks, under-tank heaters). Whichever heat source you use, make sure that the snake has a spot to retreat from the heat. This way it can regulate its own body temperature. A tip which contradicts all the books - in my experience Burmese Pythons are the most prone of all boids to respiratory infections. The albino pictured at the bottom died from such a disease, and Lewis and Buff (both pictured above) are always sneezing. All the books will tell you not to overheat snakes. While I am not saying you should cook your burmese, I ensure that their viv is warm (at least 85 degrees F at all times). There are those who argue that their should be a night time drop in temperature. I am not saying they are wrong, I am saying that in my experience such a temperature drop gives Burmese Pythons respiratory infections. Also while they need water, do not allow the enclosure to become too humid or they will get respiratory infections this way too.
	To quote a chap who used to run a snake shop about thirty miles from my home: "if they aren't warm to the touch, they've got a cold"

---

Watching a Burmese Python feed is an incredible sight - come round and watch! It is definitely not for the weak of stomach! Reports of what wild Burmese Pythons eat are varied. They seem fairly opportunistic, likely to grab anything they can overpower including small deer, monkeys, jackals, leopards, birds, goats, pigs, dogs, cats, chickens, and ducks. In your home, however, a fare of rats, guinea pigs, or rabbits should suffice. BUT so far I've only once managed to get a burmese to take a guinea pig, and never managed to get one to take a rabbit- they all seem prefer rats.

When Burmese are small (about 3 feet) medium rats are suitable. Of course, young rats can be fed to smaller specimens and large rats to bigger specimens. A rat of appropriate size once a week should be sufficient as an average rate of feeding. Note I say "average" - problem snake Buff pictured above will eat rat after rat, and then refuse food for three weeks. Other Burmese keepers have commented to me on their funny rates of feeding, pigging out for weeks, then fasting for weeks. However whatever is used as food should be dead. Live prey will eventually attack your snake. I get several emails every month from people with snakes savaged by their live dinner. After feeding, give your snake a few days without handling as this will aid in digestion. A tip - when feeding a burmese python always hold the food with tongs or forceps, and wear a glove. While they smell the food, they have heat sensors in their nostrils and the natural reflex is to go for the warm thing. The snake I'm pictured holding at the top of this page fanged my hand quite badly when I made this mistake!

A well fed adult burmese will shed its skin about once every 3 months - juveniles more frequently. The most obvious sign that shedding is imminent is a general change of colour. The "normal" phase darkens and the albino phase lightens. In both there is a clouding over of the eyes. At this point, all contact with the snake is best postponed till after shed is complete - don't feed them either as usually they won't take the food and it wastes your money. The eyes will clear after a few days of becoming glazed, and a few days later the skin will be removed. The shed is accomplished by rubbing on something until the skin on the nose comes loose. The skin is then pulled off like a sock, and the snake will generally accept food a day or so later.

Check the "head" of the skin and make sure both eyecaps came off. The tail is another area that sometimes will not remove completely. If the skin comes off in lots of small pieces, the humidity is too low. Mind you - if the humidity is right for shedding, the snake will probably have a respiratory infection !! Unshed skin can be removed by soaking the snake in water and then gently pulling it off. It's been my experience that some snakes seem to enjoy this being peeled, though some put up a struggle. Handling should be kept at a minimum during the shed period, as the new skin can be sensitive (or even damaged).

Adult burmese about to shed

---

An ideal snake ? NO !! why: 1 Too big 2 Prone to colds